IN FOCUS
By Dincy Adlakha

China's beauty industry

On 7 January, South China Morning Post published an article titled, ‘In China, beauty is only skin deep in the ‘micro-procedure’ craze’ that elaborated on the rising facial cosmetic procedures in China. The article implores to look closely at the various fallouts of the Chinese beauty industry. 

The notorious beauty standards
Chinese society has ingrained certain body types and facial features as superior to others and such notions are not new. For the longest time, the FSY - Fair, Skinny, Youthful - model has been preferred by Chinese society. A tall nose with a pointy chin is considered more attractive in China. Many of these notions arise from ancient times when the royal families were fairer than common people since they did not labor their days. As China industrialized in the 1970s and 80s, there was an immense obsession with self-improvement and uniformity. Such differences allowed for skirt-lengths and face-types to be ranked in a hierarchy. Over time, these standards of appearance have become more rigid and added more pressure.

The social media pressure 
Social media, magazines, celebrity images and the like have added to this appearance pressure. Apps like Douyin, or TikTok, have created numerous copies of an ideal appearance that are impractical to achieve. The selfie-craze has led the Chinese youth to download an average of 30 beauty apps on their phone to edit their pictures and reach a narrow aesthetic caliber. Models in fashion magazines and celebrities adhering to the set standards of appearance has the Chinese public wishing everyone looked like them.

Psychological effects
These pressures have led Chinese youth to psychological issues, many facing “appearance anxiety” and many suffering from eating disorders. As all CVs in China require attaching a picture, many even fear not having a job because they do not look fine enough to be a nurse or a retailer. Seeing similar appearances everywhere has created an insecure generation spending more on beauty and looks than essentials.

Beauty as an industry
Although Chinese society is grappling with pressure, many clothing and cosmetic brands have capitalized on and encouraged the dilemma. Brandy Melville, an Italian clothing brand, is just one of the numerous that have endorsed skinny body types in China through specific advertisements and models. K-beauty, an umbrella skincare rising from South Korea, has also found a space in Chinese society. Tedious skincare regimes and thousands of make-up products flood the market. Additionally, the Chinese public is also increasingly opting for facelifts, thread lifts and other mini cosmetic procedures. Through such “medical aesthetics,” the cosmetic industry is projected to grow to $46 billion this year over from $6.5 billion in 2013, according to the Chinese Association of Plastics and Aesthetics.

The state response
The government has not taken strict and penalizing action on the larger mechanics of the system. However, through recent moves, one can sense displeasure as the Communist Party banned advertising practices with “before/after” templates and levied taxes on such ad-makers. Further similar moves and a crackdown from the government can be predicted in the near future as the state pushes an agenda to ‘purify’ social values.

References:
“In China, beauty is only skin deep in the ‘micro-procedure’ craze,” South China Morning Post, 7 January 2022
Niu Di and Wang Xiaonian, "Beauty and Pain: Urban Chinese women and their body image issues," CGTN, 27 February 2021
Jennifer Zhuang, “In China, Body Positivity Still Wrestles With The Skinny Aesthetic,” Jing Daily, 26 June 2020
Melissa Twigg, “The Ugly Consequences Of Rigid Beauty Standards,” GenT, 10 July 2019

IN BRIEF
By Keerthana Nambiar and Avishka Ashok 

INTERNAL
Hong Kong SAR conducts the Legislative Council’s first meeting post elections
On 12 January, the seventh-term legislative council of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region initiated its first meeting. The question and answer session will involve the legislative council members posing questions to Chief Executive Carrie Lam after her initial address at the beginning of the session. (“HKSAR's 7th-term LegCo holds first meeting,” Xinhua Net, 12 January 2022)

Xinhua believes the zero-COVID strategy will reel China back to normal setting
On 12 January, Xinhua published a commentary on China’s zer0-COVID approach and the criticism it has drawn by the foreign media. The article argues that China is a country that prioritizes a ‘people-centered’ approach the zero-COVID strategy is highly suitable. It ensures that China will not change its strategy because of the critics from the foreign media as ‘violation of human rights’ and deem it be insufficient. China believes that even though the zero-COVID strategy will incur economic setbacks it is the best solution rather than the co-existence with the virus model which will spread the virus more quickly. The commentary claims that the zero-COVID approach will bring back China to a normal setting. (“Xinhua Commentary: China's people-centered zero-COVID approach effective, pragmatic,” Xinhua Net, 12 January 2022)

TECHNOLOGY
China demands Intel to delete Xinjiang references from suppliers list
On 11 January, Intel, the US chipmaking company deleted references to the Xinjiang region in China from an annual letter to the suppliers.  This development came in after Chinese social media slammed Intel to remove the sanctions-hit region. On 23 December, the letter read stated that Intel is “required to ensure that its supply chain does not use any labor or source goods or services from the Xinjiang region” after the trade restrictions imposed by “multiple governments.” “Multinational companies have come under pressure as they aim to comply with Xinjiang-related trade sanctions while continuing to operate in China, one of their biggest markets,” noted Reuters. (“Intel deletes reference to Xinjiang after backlash in China,” Reuters, 11 January 2022)

INTERNATIONAL
Chinese Embassy in the UK condemns attack on Chinese citizen at Hong Kong protests
On 12 January, the Chinese Embassy in the UK condemned the Hong Kong protesters for threatening and attacking a Chinese national during their protests on 9 January 2022. The protests took place in Manchester when the Chinese woman tried to defend China, its policies and raised an issue with the manner in which the protesters referred to China. The embassy claimed that the protesters leaked her personal information online and sent death threats to her family and her employees. The embassy spokesperson reassured their support to the woman and said: “We strongly condemn such villainous behavior.” (“Chinese Embassy in UK slams HK protesters who attacked, threatened a Chinese citizen during protest,” Global Times, 12 January 2022)

Nicaraguan President welcomes China’s support and presence at inauguration ceremony
On 12 January, Global Times reported on Nicaraguan President Daniel Ortega’s inauguration ceremony and his leaning towards China in international affairs. On 10 January, Chinese President Xi Jinping’s special envoy Cao Jianming met with President Ortega where the two leaders exchanged their views on strengthening bilateral relations and future cooperation. President Ortega also thanked China for its support and pledged to abide by the One-China principle. He also expressed Nicaragua’s willingness in joining the Belt and Road initiative and the Global Development Initiative. (“Nicaragua rides wave of China, reaffirming BRI,” Global Times, 12 January 2022)

Chinese FM spokesperson responds to US Secretary of State Blinken’s remarks
On 11 January, Chinese Foreign Ministry spokesperson Wang Wenbin responded to the US Secretary of State Antony Blinken’s remarks on the sanctions imposed on China citing human rights violations. Blinken stated that there are ‘genocides’ and ‘crime against humanity’ taking place on the Uyghur Muslims in the Xinjiang region. Wang expressed China’s distaste for the remarks by saying: “so-called "genocide" and "crimes against humanity" in Xinjiang are the biggest lies in the century, which were created by some people in the United States,” reported Xinhua. He pointed out that the accusations made by the US are ‘fabricated rumours’ and methods to ‘tarnish China’s image and contain its development’. Wang concluded that: “The Chinese side will continue to take all necessary measures to safeguard its sovereignty, dignity and legitimate interests.” (“China's counter-sanctions against U.S. "fully justified": spokesperson,” Xinhua Net, 11 January 2022)

Turkish and Iranian Foreign Ministers to visit China
On 11 January, the Chinese Foreign Ministry announced that the foreign Ministers of Turkey and Iran will be visiting China on 12 and 14 January 2022 respectively. The visit is a part of the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) with expectations of a breakthrough to be made between China-GCC Free Trade Agreement. Global Times noted: “major Mideast countries will enhance and accelerate cooperation with China as they are seeking regional stability and development after seeing through the US' trap, which is to make them rely on the US by creating conflicts in the region.” (“Turkey, Iran foreign ministers to visit China,” Global Times, 11 January 2022)